How does it feel to be named number one in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2024?
We’re the first bar outside Europe and New York to top the list. In those markets there’s lots of famous bartenders, but in Mexico it doesn’t tend to be that way.
For many bartenders in Mexico they come from such humble backgrounds, but now everyone at Handshake is on top of the world, which I think is more valuable than any list.
Nobody in Mexico ever thought we’d be able to do this and it was tough, but I hope it will create a spark for Latin America as a whole. But it’s not just us – the likes of Licorería Limantour, Hanky Panky and other great bars laid the foundations for the Mexican bar scene.
What did you bring from The Netherlands to Mexico and what have you learned from your time there?
Dutch people are very direct and can come across as quite rude, but we don’t cut corners. That’s what I instilled in the team and at first it was quite tough on them because the programme was strict, but it filtered down throughout everyone and it became a culture.
I’ve taken inspiration from Mexico’s food, ingredients and music, but more than anything else I’ve learned to enjoy the moment. I’ve learned that if things don’t go exactly the way you planned, it’s OK.
The warmth of the people and the culture of Mexico have taught me that and I think it’s something Europeans can learn a lot from.
Do you think Mexico City is now on the same technical level as the world’s other great bar scenes?
No. But you can teach technique and you can teach balance. What you cannot teach is vibe, energy and interaction and I think London and Paris etc lack that compared to Mexico City.
Are you ready for the heightened attention after topping the list?
We very much prioritise our locals. But Mexico City has nearly 10 million people plus another million tourists, and we only have 30 seats so we have to treat everyone the same.
It’s true that the bar will become more touristy now we’re number one, but nothing has changed since the day we opened in terms of ethos or philosophy, we’ve just got better at doing it and this will continue.
What’s next for Handshake?
Shakerato is going to be the sister bar to Handshake, opening around March in Amsterdam.
Handshake in Mexico City is very dark and moody, but in Amsterdam we want it to be an all-day space with lots of white and gold and really push the aperitivo culture. It will have a big food focus with lots of sharing plates in an Italian style, because Shakerato is actually a shaken Campari cocktail.
