This article first appeared in the Drinks International Rum Supplement which can be read in full here
Since 1924, a total of 42 tropical cyclones have officially peaked as category five Atlantic hurricanes, the highest rating given to a storm that has top wind speeds of more than 158mph (254 km/h). These hurricanes frequently pass through some of rum’s most established and important regions, with Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Central America and the Caribbean coast of South America often in their path.
And while, over generations, rum producers have learnt to live with the seasonal occurrence of destructive weather events, according to the UN’s International Panel on Climate Change as the earth continues to warm, it’s unlikely there will be an increase in the number of tropical cyclones each year, but it’s “very likely” that storms will have higher rates of rainfall and higher top wind speeds, meaning a higher proportion of hurricanes would reach category four or five.
The existing record already appears to support this. Of the 42 category five storms that have happened in the last century, almost a quarter were since 2016. This year saw two – Beryl in July and Milton in October – both of which impacted rum production.
Hurricane Beryl caused devastation in Jamaica where the storm killed at least four people and left much of the island without power. J Wray & Nephew was quick to launch relief efforts in the area, deploying mobile generators and providing drinking water to local communities. The company itself was impacted. The heavy rains brought by the storm caused the dunder ponds where fermentation takes place to overflow and become contaminated and production was shut down for “at least a month”, according to company chairman Jean-Philippe Beyer speaking to the Jamaica Observer.
Persistent challenges
According to the brand’s owner, Campari Group, the disruptions due to Hurricane Beryl resulted in a 20% year-on-year decline in revenue during the third quarter of 2024.
A Campari Group spokesperson said: “Persistent challenges in the Americas, mainly in selected categories in the United States, and an extraordinary impact of the hurricane in Jamaica in the third quarter of the year, [led] to supply shortages in rum portfolios for both the local and the export markets.”
Cuba is no stranger to the impacts of hurricanes. As recently as mid-November, the island experienced a nationwide blackout triggered by Hurricane Rafael.
Speaking on the impact of hurricanes, Havana Club International chief executive Christian Barré tells Drinks International: “Havana Club, like many other businesses, operates in a region impacted by extreme weather events and natural disasters.
“Our distillery was built to withstand severe weather conditions, allowing us to continue operations without disruption and prioritise the safety of our employees, who are equipped with training and protocols.
“We remain dedicated to safeguarding Cuba’s natural resources, people and investing in the future of the island.”
Beyond direct destruction of parts of the distillery, sugarcane is very prone to storm damage.
According to Louisiana State University sugarcane specialist Kenneth Gravois in a conversation with Farm Progress, generally, farms within 50 miles (80km) of the eye of the storm can expect to see a 10-20% loss in yield but the total impact can be devastating. During Hurricane Ida in 2021, the BBC reported that “478 square kilometres of sugarcane crops in Louisiana were destroyed. This was around 26% of the total sugarcane harvest in the state.”
While the storms of the 2024 season haven’t brought with them quite the same level of destruction as 2017, what’s concerning is the increasing regularity with which the region is told to batten down the hatches and prepare for the worst. While the region’s rum producers are well equipped to ride out even the worst storms, as they arrive with greater frequency producers must continue to adapt.
