While France has cognac, Mexico has tequila and China has baijiu, India’s native spirit has been somewhat forgotten over the years – but that’s starting to change.
Mahua – also known regionally as mahura, mhowra, mohua, mahuda, moha, madhuca and more – is distilled entirely from the flowers of the mahua (Madhuca longifolia) tree. Often categorised as a ‘tribal’ or ‘country’ liquor, a stigma rooted in the colonial era, rulers of the time labelled Indian indigenous spirits with these terms to promote imported spirits such as whisky and gin, and in turn, pushed indigenous spirits into obscurity with restrictive regulations. The mahua flower was once deemed a dangerous intoxicant and a threat to public health under British colonialism, which led to its ban. The Mhowra Act of 1892 prohibited the collection of mahua flowers and the production of the spirit during this period. After India gained independence in 1947, mahua remained classified as a ‘dangerous’ drink and tribal communities were not allowed to produce and sell it outside village markets.
Now in 2025, the drink is reclaiming its space in the spirits industry and showcasing what mahua has to offer. Vikram Damodaran, chief innovation officer of Diageo India, which also has The Good Craft Co championing craft spirits in the country, says: “When you go to parts of India where mahua is concentrated, it’s consumed daily. It’s like walking down the streets of Guadalajara where you have tequila bars and people sipping. We have documented stories of people using it to anoint or to disinfect the umbilical cord when a woman gives birth, it’s ingrained in celebration.”
Vikram Achanta, co-founder of India Bartender Week, suggests that more than 100 million people rely strongly on the natural resource economically and culturally. Mahua trees are found in forests of the central belt of India in around 13 out of India’s 28 states, such as Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. The tree is also called the ‘wishing tree’ and has been revered for its healing and nutritional properties.
The drink is the world’s only spirit made from flowers, which are small in size but house pulpy sugar, retaining the starch after being dried. Mahua trees flower once a year, typically in late March/early April, and have white flowers which can only be collected once fallen, not be plucked as per the law.
In order to collect, the forest floor is first burned so the white of the flower is more visible. These flowers are then dried, collected in gunny bags and sold to traders. Some locals make mahua in backyard stills, fermenting and using basic single distillation.
Mahua revival
As mahua gains further international recognition, more brands are beginning to produce the spirit for wider consumption. South Seas Distilleries’ Six Brothers mahura is one championing the spirit and pushing for the development of this category.
Rupi Chinoy, creative director of South Seas Distilleries, says for South Seas “bringing back mahura is not just reviving a lost spirit, we are building a new category of spirits and that’ll take a lot of effort and education. It’s also about reclaiming a piece of India’s heritage for us, that’s what we want to do. Most of the spirits that are sold in India didn’t originate from here, whereas mahura is original to India. This is our legacy and we believe in this spirit. That’s why we have distilled it the way we would single malt”.
To create Six Brothers, the spirit is double distilled in copper pot stills, the same ones used to make its Crazy Cock single malt whisky. “It’s not an infused product”, adds Chinoy, “you ferment the flowers themselves and then that wash is double distilled in copper pot stills and platinum filtered to give it more of a crisp feel.”
Six Brothers launched with 102 bottles of its 1922 Resurrection, produced to mark the number of years since the distillery first opened in 1922, using casks from that time, available on allocation.
Six Brothers Small Batch, its second expression, uses the double distillation in copper pot stills and platinum filtration, and is available in Mumbai, Maharashtra, Goa and Haryana, as the brand looks to expand outside of India. “People are very excited, the bartending community is excited. There’s a lot of buzz going on for Six Brothers. Now there are no restrictions, we can export. It’s an extremely versatile spirit and can be consumed neat or in cocktails. It does have its own flavour and character but also lends itself well to cocktails. It has a floral, earthy, spiciness to it,” Chinoy says.
Neil Alexander, mixologist at The Good Craft Co, says: “I see mahua as the next big thing for bartending in India. Most people are not familiar with it. Everyone is so reliant on liquids that come from outside of India and it’s not always available. So you have to come up with something. For me, Indian spirits represent the heritage and cultures we have here. I think it’s going to be the next tequila. Whatever comes out as a commercial product will probably be the next tequila or what gin was five years ago. It’s going to be even better because you can do a lot more with it – it has a unique flavour profile.”
Another brand, Desmondji, produces its mahua inspired by tribal lore and tradition, made in artisanal pot stills to create the fragrant spirit that requires no ageing. Desmondji founder Desmond Nazareth says: “We’ve been pushing the government to make it a heritage alcohol of the state and eventually create a GI. We make it in our distillery and we’re excited to start taking it overseas, with the UK possibly being the first export market.”
While a GI for mahua could mean further international status and recognition, regulations can also make things harder. Mahua is not the only spirit which originates in India, and feni is one with heavy restrictions making it harder on producers to showcase the spirit to a wider audience. The spirit originates in Goa, with its most popular types being cashew or coconut feni.
Damodaran adds: “Like mahua, there are thousands of spirits across India that are native to the land. Mahua is gaining popularity now after nearly 20 years, because of its adoption in the bar community, also because consumers are open to experimentation.
“People are looking at it in a different way, which is driving a massive shift towards consumption of native Indian spirits and mahua being one of the most popular. There is also feni, which has unfortunately been restricted in where it can be sold as we have excise which plays a massive role in how spirits are disseminated across the country.
“I think things will change. Until a few years ago, feni could only be sold in Goa, now it can be sold in about four states. These spirits are gaining popularity with consumers and they will find a way to transcend borders.”
