Despite it being a traditional spirit synonymous with Scandinavia, there’s plenty going on in aquavit at the moment, both at home and further afield, with greater use in cocktails and no shortage of innovation.
A collaboration between Norwegian brand Linie and Oslo cocktail bar Himkok is a case in point. Building on Linie’s traditional practice of ageing its aquavits at sea, crossing the equator twice, an aquavit produced in-house by the bar set sail in earlier this year, returning in June. The spirit was finished in smoked oloroso sherry casks with birch ends. “Our collaboration aims to further elevate aquavit’s profile, and we hope to continue this momentum into 2025,” says Himkok head of R&D Paul Aguilar.
In Sweden, Almqvist Destilleri is among the representatives of a new generation of aquavit, set up by former brand ambassador and London bartender Bex Almqvist, who uses traditional methods to create a contemporary aquavit.
“Interest in top bars is spreading, and there is curiosity, from consumers, but mostly from the trade,” says Almqvist. “It isn't a well-established spirits category yet, but I'm here to change that.”
There’s motivation to expand aquavit’s appeal, both at home and abroad. “You can’t create a global brand or spirit category drinking it the way we do in Scandinavia, neat, with food,“ adds Almqvist. “The perception in Scandinavia is that it’s a granddad or parent drink. My sales figures show an increase prior to crayfish parties and Christmas, but I want people to consume it all year round.”
IWSR market analyst Aruna Braganza supports this, saying: “In Sweden, aquavit is losing market share due to its perception as a drink mainly for older generations and limited to festive occasions. The category struggles to recruit younger consumers.”
The situation may be changing in Norway, however. “Consumers are now exposed to a wider variety of aquavit options and are incorporating it into more diverse occasions,” says Braganza. “Companies are collaborating with bartenders to incorporate aquavit into more cocktails, contributing to the trend.”
Odd Johan Nelvik, founder of Det Norske Brenneri, or The Norwegian Distillery, would like to see the spirit consumed less seasonally. “We believe it should be enjoyed all year round. Aquavit is a fantastic base for a variety of cocktails and we are patiently waiting for the rest of the world to catch on to this idea,” he says.
Growing interest
Aguilar is seeing growing interest in the category, both at Himkok and in other bars. “The increased demand for aquavit in Norway’s on-trade sector is very encouraging, with more venues ordering aquavit specifically for use in cocktails.”
Iceland, perhaps less known for its aquavit compared to Sweden, Norway or Denmark, has a dedicated following at home. “The local market is really important, as our biggest and best brand ambassadors are the Icelandic people,” says Úlfar Árdal, master distiller for Brennivín (the country’s aquavit) at Ölgerðin Egill Skallagrímsson distillery.
Local markets are important for all of aquavit’s primary producing countries, with Denmark in first place, accounting for 35% of the global category’s volume, according to the IWSR, which places Norway and Sweden in second and fourth place. Germany, in third place with 20% of volume, isn’t showing particular promise at the moment according to IWSR market analyst Fernanda Saldaña Rodriguez. “In the DACH region [Germany, Austria and Switzerland], the category has been in structural decline for many years now, as it is associated with an older generation and has struggled to attract a younger consumer base,” she says.
The US, in fifth place with 2% of global volumes, is an interesting case. “Aquavit is slowly gaining traction in the US, largely due to the efforts of craft distilleries producing local versions,” says IWSR senior market analyst Chris Budzik, who explains that growth has been helped by “the popularity of Nordic culture and food in parts of the country with large Scandinavian populations”, as well as its use in cocktails.
For many aquavit brands, there is a focus on building the category abroad. “Export markets are integral to Nuet as we try to drive an aquavit revolution outside of the traditional aquavit countries,” says this Norwegian aquavit’s brand ambassador Jake Lovell-Hewitt, adding that Nuet is already available in the UK, Switzerland and Singapore, in addition to Denmark and Sweden. “Norway remains a key focus as well, as our home market and traditionally a strong consumer of aquavit.”
Norway is an important market for Det Norske Brenneri too, says Nelvik. “Aquavit is still very much a Nordic phenomenon, so naturally our primary focus is the domestic market, but we are seeing growing interest in the US,” he says. “Just as saunas, which are also Nordic, have gained significant popularity recently, perhaps aquavit will be next.”
For Almqvist, drawing a parallel between aquavit and gin, particularly in light of the latter’s success, is useful, and illustrated through her product range, which includes both spirits. “I make these two exactly the same way, with the only difference being the botanicals.”
Almqvist points out the flexibility that both categories share, which has proven beneficial for gin. “Aquavit can also move with the times. That's what I’ve done with mine,” she says.
Also highlighting the link between these two categories is Mika Raukko, marketing director for Nordic brands at Anora Group, with a number of well-known aquavits in its portfolio. “Aquavit is certainly benefiting from the gin boom and the increased focus on botanicals across various spirit categories,” he says.
Like gin, therefore, there’s potential when it comes to mixing. “We are witnessing growing international interest and usage of aquavit, particularly within the mixology scene,” Raukko explains. “Its unique flavour profile provides bartenders worldwide with new tools and dimensions to enhance their cocktails.”
“I think bartenders are looking for new flavours and more interesting spirits to work with,” agrees Lovell-Hewitt. “It’s such a large and varied category – there’s an aquavit to suit every cocktail.”
For Sune Urth, R&D director of Denmark’s Copenhagen Distillery, aquavit’s appeal to bartenders is just one element. “The classic traditions aren’t dying out – they’re too good a thing to disappear – but the interesting thing is that the cocktail has entered the picture.”
Innovation abounds
Meanwhile, distillers continue to innovate to appeal to new consumers as well as bartenders. “Our goal is for more people to discover this unique spirit, and for aquavit to gain a stronger global presence. Innovation is key to achieving that,” says Nelvik, adding that Det Norske Brenneri has created expressions specifically designed for cocktails.
Ölgerðin Egill Skallagrímsson is innovating too, with Árdal describing ageing in barrels formerly used for everything from sherry to peach brandy, and even hot sauce, as well as infusions with Icelandic rye bread. “We’ve been playing around with the style, but still hold true to the original liquid of Brennivín.”
Another source of innovation comes from those producing aquavit outside of its Scandinavian heartland. “There are more aquavit producers in Oregon than in Denmark,” says Urth. “It does not in any way dilute anything – the more the merrier, I say.”
At Anora, Raukko is of a similar mind. “We welcome the development of aquavits in other markets and the unique flavour profiles they bring,” he says. “Given that aquavit is relatively unknown outside of northern Europe, we view this as a positive opportunity to promote and expand the category.”
Nelvik agrees. “It’s important to cheer on anyone who is helping to generate interest,” he says. “We would even welcome American producers to our distillery in Norway to share some of our knowledge.”
For Tonny Svensson, co-owner of Denmark’s Plateau Spirits, these producers beyond Scandinavia are a reminder of the spirit’s roots. “Good liquor is good liquor, no matter where it is from, but we who live in the Nordic countries have for many years been making aquavit both commercially and in the old days as moonshiners,” he says.
“Like in the UK, where they are proud of their gin heritage, we should do more to show the rest of the world that we can make good, original aquavit.”
To highlight this heritage, Plateau Spirits will soon change its name to Hafn, as Copenhagen was once known. In addition to the name switch, Svensson anticipates positive change for the category. “The new generation will, after many years with gin, try something new, and it will give us distillers a reason to invent new aquavits with new, exciting flavours.”
Lovell-Hewitt is optimistic. “We’re seeing top bars and restaurants use aquavits regularly, but this will start to filter through the rest of the industry, much in the same way that happened with tequila and mezcal.”
As with those agave spirits, aquavit’s potential for success is rooted, at least in part, in its history. “Preserving the cultural heritage and traditions of Scandinavian aquavit is crucial, yet equally important is modernising it to demonstrate its relevance at dinner tables and in cocktails today,” says Raukko.
Aguilar agrees. “Aquavit has a bright future, especially when promoted in the right way, by balancing tradition with innovation.”
If it can find that balance, the future for Scandinavia’s spirit, regardless of where it’s produced, will indeed be bright.
