Argentina’s wine landscape has been somewhat rocky in previous years. The political situation in the country has meant high exchange rates on exports, and that’s been coupled with unexpected cold snaps causing problems for vineyards. However, as of late this is shifting. Susana Balbo, founder of Susana Balbo Wines, says the new government’s implementation of “more accurate” exchange rates is “allowing us to regain competitiveness”. She adds: “Argentina can now return to the markets with a strength that had been lost due to the macroeconomic conditions.”
With this, the category is looking to new styles to tell the story of Argentinian wine. Laura Catena, fourth generation vintner and managing director of Catena Zapata, notes Malbec “continues to be the most popular style” but there is “growing interest” in Cabernet Franc and Criolla Grapes. She says these are: “Traditional varieties with a long history in Argentina. Wines made from these grapes offer unique flavours and a connection to the country’s viticultural heritage.”
Catena says “different regions in Mendoza, such as the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, produce distinct styles of wine” and are also seeing popularity at the moment. “Argentinian wine is experiencing several changes and innovations, with new styles emerging that reflect both traditional and modern influences,” she adds. “There is an increasing emphasis on producing wines that reflect the specific characteristics of sub-regions and individual vineyard parcels. This approach allows for a greater diversity of flavours and profiles, even within the same grape variety, highlighting the unique terroirs of Argentina.”
According to Balbo: “It’s not only about Malbec, but about Malbec from specific regions. Consumers are still very much in love with Malbec but are choosing lighter styles where there is less use of oak and the expression is more of terroir.
“We have been looking beyond Malbec for many years through our ‘white wine revolution strategy’. In the foreign market, consumers are starting to show increased interest in Cabernet Franc. However, there are not many hectares of Cabernet Franc planted in Argentina.
“Leading the way with Torrontés, we are making wines that reflect hidden potential. Paraje Altamira, in the Uco Valley, with its fantastic alluvial chalky soils, provides the backbone for some of our most sought-after white wines, such as Susana Balbo Signature White Blend. Fortunately, we see a great increase of wineries that are also joining us in this white wine revolution, making high-end white wines out of Torrontés and other grape varieties,” Balbo continues.
As winemakers look to new styles of both red and white to showcase the terroir of Argentina, the habits of consumers are also changing. “Another important issue is a change that has been taking place in the profile of the consumers, who are used to sweeter drinks and cocktails,” says Balbo. “Due to this, we can see that there is a reinvention in the styles of the wines offered, thinking now on lighter and lower-alcohol or even non-alcoholic wines, and tendencies moving towards more sustainable and organic wines, which will boost wine consumption worldwide.”
Tres Monos
While wine brands are looking to expand their portfolios to meet changing consumer habits, and showcase the heritage and flavours that Argentina has to offer, local bars are doing the same with their drinks offerings. As Catena notes: “Wine bars are increasingly featuring a variety of Argentinian wines, including lesser-known varieties and styles, to offer unique tasting experiences.”
Not a wine bar per se, but stepping further into the wine space is Buenos Aires’ Tres Monos, No.11 in The World’s 50 Best Bars and winner of the 2023 Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award. As part of a project in developing its own portfolio of wines to serve by the glass, the bar has been working with Casa Tano winemaker Lucas Richardi. Having already launched a Pet Nat earlier this year (Syrah Pet Nat 2022), originating from Campo de los Andes, Tunuyán, Mendoza, the bar is looking to release the rest of its range in (UK) autumn this year.
Charly Aguinsky who founded and owns Tres Monos alongside Sebastián Atienza, told DI after testing the Pet Nat with consumers: “We decided to start growing our wine portfolio. We use wines in cocktails a lot. For example, we use a white or rosé for flavour and acidity, red as a garnish in a New York Sour or sparkling wine as a mixer instead of using soda or tonic water. We use the Pet Nat to make a Spritz or Highball.”
The three additions to Tres Monos’ range of wines are a Criolla Grande 2024 (12.5% abv) and Naranjo 2024 (11.5% abv) from Tupungato, Mendoza, along with a Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (13% abv) from Gualtallary, Mendoza.
On choosing the specific styles, Aguinsky says: “Being a bar and not a steak restaurant, for example, we wanted a lighter red rather than a heavy one. In Mendoza, Criolla grows better than Pinot Noir. Orange wine in Argentina is a trend with the customers we have and white wine was a recommendation by Richardi as it grows really well in this area.
“Torrontés is a variety originally from Argentina, but in this case Sauvignon Blanc grows brilliantly in this area and he makes wonderful wines so we chose this path.
“Since the beginning we haven’t listed imported wines, we have mostly local from Mendoza and occasionally from Patagonia. It’s part of our philosophy to focus on local products,” Aguinsky continues.
Tres Monos uses its R&D lab to produce its own liqueurs and sake, along with partnerships with different producers to create whisky, gin and cider. Aguinsky says: “With whisky, for example, it’s more difficult to find Argentinian, so that’s why we ended up doing our own, and with wine people want to try different things and are looking for local products.
“Here the red wines are going to have the most volume, but there is a trend in certain audiences for orange wine. We want to cater to everyone in cocktails and with the wine.
“Working with local, small producers poses challenges because it can take months to get the product and you need to buy in large volumes because they cannot sell you two or three cases every week, you have to buy 15-30 cases and work out where you’re going to fit them in the bar,” Aguinsky adds.
Looking ahead, Aguinsky says: “Who knows, we may end up opening a wine bar, but we want to launch these three labels then maybe work on some more. At the moment we have a great relationship with Lucas, and next month he is bringing us some samples to try. They were freshly harvested two months ago, so we haven’t tried a final cut yet. We’ll do a tasting and look to September for a launch.”
With the landscape of Argentinian wine shifting and overseas markets having their own economical challenges, consumers and producers alike are looking to new styles with healthier consumption habits.
As a result, it’s clear the future of Argentinian wine will be driven by local supporting local, highlighting what the country’s viticulture has to offer in both the on and off-trade.
