Vermouth is an incredibly versatile product and these days it very much reflects a broader shift towards appreciating drinks with a strong heritage and tradition,” says Giorgio Bargiani, global brand advocate for 1757 Vermouth di Torino. However, for vermouth this appreciation is still in its early stages, as Bargiani notes that consumers’ knowledge of the category “is yet to achieve its full potential”.
Giorgio Bava, export area manager at Cocchi, has also noticed the desire for heritage in the drinking experience. “We see a strong interest for authenticity, provenance and personal touch in our category, so ironically a modern trend is looking for classic styles and historical brands. It’s a good moment for our category. After two decades of growth and love among the bartending community, we see that classic aperitivo cocktails are becoming more and more popular with consumers and Americano, Negroni and spritz-style serves are becoming a less scary choice than before.”
Serves
This idea of the category being less intimidating to consumers is its driving force. Nicola Olianas, global brand ambassador for Fratelli Branca Distillerie, says vermouth has a wide offering and is very approachable, whereas other categories “may require more education. 75% of vermouth is wine, so it’s more approachable as consumers are already familiar with that category”. Particularly in Spain and Italy, people are drinking it in a similar way to wine, or with soda. The latter is something many brands are noticing as a good entry into the category for those who may not be so familiar.
Olianas has found consumers are appreciating vermouth “not only as an ingredient in the cocktail but also as a product” and that producers “want their vermouth’s style to emerge in the drinking experience”.
Elena Branda, Perlino marketing manager, agrees, saying: “One of the biggest changes is the increasing appreciation for vermouth as a standalone beverage, not just as a cocktail ingredient.” But in order for vermouth to be recognised on its own, it's cocktails that will keep it relevant and keep consumers aware.
Bargiani notes how vermouth is essentially: “A cocktail in itself because if you think about its components you already have everything you would have in a pre-mixed drink – the alcohol from wine, sugar and the bitterness of the botanicals. In the rising wave of low-abv drinks, it also caters for lighter beverage options and its variety of botanicals allows for a great spectrum of flavour combinations.”
However, even with interest in sipping neat, it's not strong enough outside of local markets yet and the category still flies somewhat under the radar.
Bargiani adds that on a global scale “bartenders are still the main vehicle of its growth”. The fortified wine is a key component in many classic cocktails, such as the Martini, Negroni or Manhattan, but outside of this, it’s up to bartenders to highlight its versatility in the bar.
For example, Giancarlo Mancino, founder of Mancino Vermouth, explains that, as part of his work with House of Negroni, he recently made a Negroni pre-batched cocktail which will “help people be more familiar with vermouth”. For those who aren’t used to sipping neat, it’s continuing cocktail offerings that will push awareness for the category.
Styles
While Italian vermouth maintains its position as leader of the category, other countries are also finding success with the liquid, led by the cocktail occasion. Cara Lee Dely, head of winemaking, production and operations at England’s Bolney Wine Estate, says: “Sales of the vermouths consistently tick over during the year, but of course we do see some seasonal shifts. Our Bianco is more popular in summer as it has been made to be lighter and fresher in style with strong notes of pink grapefruit and basil, and works really well with lighter-style mixers served over ice. The Rosso Vermouth, on the other hand, has heavier notes of fresh rosemary and juniper, so it lends itself more to the winter months and heavier mixers like a Negroni.”
Again, the category, especially outside of its key markets, lends itself to the cocktail experience. “There’s definitely been a shift in the understanding of what vermouth is and how it can be used, but the majority of consumers still probably see it as a component for various cocktails, rather than as a drink to sip,” adds Lee Dely.
Vermouth “will likely always remain a more niche drink”, Lee Dely continues, much like port and sherry. As seen in all areas of the category, its future will be led by bartenders who “drive interest and intrigue in the product and how to use it”.
Sherry takes over
While many are finding vermouth to be a popular choice for sipping, and still the backbone of many cocktails, both classic and twists, not everyone feels the same. Elon Soddu, co-founder and general manager at Amaro Bar, Twice Shy and Amaro Spirits, notes in his bars sherry is taking over as it’s “a bit more versatile for cocktails and it’s cheaper than vermouth. It’s also about expanding the offering in terms of mixology and my bartenders use sherry more than vermouth”. In the bars, Soddu says they “only really do Negronis, Manhattans and Martinis with vermouth as they are the three drinks that really survive.”
He adds: “At the moment, in Amaro we only have one sweet and one dry vermouth, we’ve cut back quite a bit. In Twice Shy we have an Italian sweet and a French dry. We aren’t getting many requests or interest for vermouth brands or styles specifically, so we have more types of sherry.
“I think guests are more interested in the gin in a Martini for example, rather than the supporting ingredient. Prices are also not helping in the vermouth category as it used to be seen as a cheaper option. Vermouth and soda or tonic is becoming more popular, especially with bartenders, but I don’t see them recommending it enough and I don’t think they will because it’s not the trend at the moment,” Soddu continues.
On the future of vermouth Soddu adds there will “always be a market for vermouth, but I don’t think there will be a time when vermouth will become the selling point for a cocktail. It’s very rare when someone asks you to change the vermouth or bitter in the cocktail”.
