The array of bitter drinks from Italy, from aperitif-style products to deeper-flavoured amari, continue their rise – not only in terms of greater global recognition, but a growing number of new products, from Italy and further afield. Driven by a combination of moderate drinking trends, the rise of the aperitivo moment, broader cocktail trends and more, these diverse bitter drinks are only gaining ground.
“The incredible marketing campaigns from Campari have had a huge impact on the growth of bitters and aperitivo consumption globally, with Aperol seeing such incredible growth,” says Robert Berry, managing director of UK vermouth and amaro producer Asterley Bros, London. “The aperitivo moment is now becoming integrated into countries and cultures that haven’t had it historically, with the idea of a bittersweet pre-dinner drink in relaxed surroundings becoming commonplace globally.”
Gareth Franklin, global brand ambassador for Luxardo, attributes this to multiple factors. “Aperitivo-style drinking is on the rise globally due to its connection to Italian style, and its holiday feel. It’s a trend that’s aspirational and I see it continuing to grow.”
Tim Simmons, owner and founder of UK brand Sipello, says: “The growing cocktail trend is driving aperitifs, as well as the search for new flavours, refreshing serves, bartender appreciation of more natural, local products and, most of all, the appeal of the laid back aperitif occasion itself.”
“On every table in basically every restaurant you go into there are at least one or two Spritzes,” adds Ana Rosenstein, chief executive of Tuscan brand Amante 1530. “The category isn't going anywhere, and we are certainly benefiting from it.”
Roberta Mariani, global advocacy director for Italspirits, which includes the Savoia brand in its portfolio, gives credit to certain bars in London and New York, around the year 2014, for helping to popularise products like these. “Since then, many Italian producers have found space on the back bars of some of the best bars in the world.”
That said, recent figures aren’t immensely positive – although this depends on how these drinks are categorised. When it comes to Italian and Italian-style bitters specifically, the IWSR reports a decline of 4% in volume between 2022 and 2023, following growth of 1% CAGR between 2018 and 2023. “Spirit aperitifs have been on a long upward trajectory, and that continued in 2023 although at a slower pace, due in part to price rises in the Italian market,” says IWSR research director Humphrey Serjeantson.
“Amari did less well in Italy in 2023 than in previous years,” he adds. “Overall, the long-term shift of consumption from after-dinner to aperitif is likely to benefit spirit aperitifs more than bitters.”
Mixed drinks, therefore, are essential to the category. “Cocktails play a crucial role in our brand strategy,” says Alessandro Soleschi, group director of marketing spirits for Gruppo Montenegro.
For Amaro Montenegro, this means a combination of classic and contemporary serves. “This approach allows us to appeal to a wide range of consumers, from those who appreciate classic cocktails to those seeking new and exciting drink experiences.”
At Amaro Santoni, managing partner Luca Missaglia describes a similar approach. “For consumers at home, we suggest some of the classics, including a Garibaldi, Pink Negroni or Paloma, while in bars our partner bartenders create more unusual and elaborate serves,” he says.
“We obviously have our take on the Spritz, and our twist on the Negroni, but we also have amazing cocktails we have invented with some of the best bartenders in the world,” says Amante 1530’s Rosenstein, naming Walter Bolzonella in Italy and Jason Snopkoski in the US.
Antonella Nonino, managing director of Nonino Distillatori, notes the positive influence of cocktails, and bartenders too. “The Paper Plane cocktail, created in 2007 by Sam Ross in New York, is made with Amaro Nonino, and has become a modern classic.”
Collaborative approach
More recently, the brand has worked with bartenders around the world, and created Amaro Nonino Quintessentia L’Aperitivo del Maestro with Salvatore Calabrese. “We have always believed in the cocktail category, and in collaboration with bartenders.”
As a brand primarily focused on the on-trade, Sipello has collaborated with bartenders from the outset, explains Simmons. “We have signature serves for both Negronis and Spritzes, which are rapidly growing in appeal, but what we tend to see is bartenders creating bespoke serves.”
There’s one up-and-coming classic that’s worth keeping an eye on, says Quirijn de Koning, global brand director for Galliano at Lucas Bols. “The Sbagliato is on the rise and fits the Galliano L’Aperitivo flavour very well,” he says. “It’s growing rapidly, and visible on many cocktail menus.”
Like the Spritz, the Sbagliato ticks another contemporary drinking-trend box: that of moderation. “The relatively low abv of the Spritz is one of the key factors in its favour,” confirms Serjeantson.
“We are seeing bars cater towards consumers wanting lower-abv and lighter serves, and pairing these cocktails with lunch and dinner menus to really embrace the true meaning of aperitivo,” says Missaglia.
“The lower-abv trend has definitely helped the category, and us specifically,” says Rosenstein. “We didn't set out to create a low-abv product per se, but by virtue of the category, it is.”
It’s a category particularly suited to lower-alcohol serves, says Ian Bayliss, co-founder of UK brand Aker. “Low-abv bittersweet aperitifs and bitters offer the consumer a range of flavours and a range of serves, while being lighter on alcohol,” he says.
Low-abv serves are inextricably linked with the aperitivo moment, believes Franklin. “There is a lot of crossover, as it also strays from the idea of using a spirit as a base, often replacing it with liqueurs,” he says.
Dave Willis, head distiller and co-founder of Bully Boy Distillers in the US, believes there’s more to the category than its alcohol content.
“The trend toward low abv has certainly accelerated interest, but it's not where the interest originated,” he says. “Italian bitters work beautifully in cocktails and they're really easy to work with. It’s not a challenge to integrate amaro into a bar programme.”
At Lucas Bols, however, abv is core to the approach for Galliano L’Aperitivo. “We are focusing on cocktails with one unit or less – comparable to a beer,’ says De Koning, giving the example of 3cl of Galliano L’Aperitivo with tonic or grapefruit soda.
Going further, Lucas Bols last yearacquired non-alcoholic spirit brand Fluère, which features a non-alcoholic bitter as part of its range. Fluère Bitter, too, is recommended for simple serves such as with grapefruit soda or tonic, or as a base for non-alcoholic takes on classics such as the Negroni.
Another non-alcoholic spirits brand with a bitter product in its range is UK-based Strykk. “The sector has seen a proliferation of innovative products from both Italy and international producers, fuelled by increasing demand for complex, alcohol-free options,” says founder & chief executive Alex Carlton. “There is a growing appreciation for Italian-style drinks, known for their complex and sophisticated flavour profiles, which perfectly aligns with increasing consumer interest in premium, artisanal beverages.”
With or without alcohol, in classic cocktails or inventive new serves, this is a category in sync with multiple contemporary drinking trends, and one that’s continuing to evolve too.
