Grown on the volcanic soils of the Ihringer Winklerberg, reputed ly one of Germany's warmest sites; maceration on skins for 20 days followed by 12 to 14 months in small barriques; 13.5 per cent abv; UK £23.25

Colour: Bright ruby red

Aroma: Ripe fruit jelly, raspberry/cherry compote, hints of damp earth

Taste: Really full, fruity explosion. A tingle of lively, youthful acidity balances some chewy tannins, but the wine has an immediate appeal with bags of primary fruit - raspberry, red cherry, strawberry and blackberry notes on the finish. Complex and full flavoured but highly drinkable.

Overall: Great now or keep for two to three years. Compare: Pernand-Vergelesses.

== 2003 Spätlese Trocken, Weingut Bercher - Baden ==

Grown on the volcanic soils and sandy clay of the Jechtinger Eichert; vines replaced at about 25 years; 12 months in large old oak vats; 13.5 per cent abv; UK £28.42

Colour: Lighter, pinky red tinged with ochre

Aroma: Leafy, sour cherry nose with hints of pepper and clove

Taste: Jammy sour cherry and redcurrant. Soft, spicy mid-palate with forest fruits, keen acidity and a suggestion of wood smoke.

Overall: For drinking now. Compare: Côte de Beaune.

== Cuvée Max 2003 Trocken, August Kesseler - Rheingau ==

35 year-old vines grown on slate soils in the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg; fermented in open, 1,000-litre vessels followed by 12 to 14 months in barrique; 14 per cent abv; UK £30.60

Colour: Dusky ruby with a dark core

Aroma: Expressive black fruits with gently menthol, spicy touches

Taste: Full-bodied black berries, black cherry and Victoria plum, bound together by firm but rounded tannins and racy acidity. Blackcurrant on finish with distinctly spicy, woody hints

Overall: Keep for four to six years. Compare: Nuits-St-Georges.