O Fournier group chairman Jose Ortega Fournier says: “We are experimenting with a slow but constant shift in the Chilean wine sector by focusing more on quality and finding the right areas for the right varieties. It is critical that the search for the right terroirs and the abandonment of the ‘industrialised’ grape growing process, where anything goes as long as the grape is a ‘commercial’ one, continues.
“There is a need for smaller, more focused wineries which will focus on better vineyard practices and more personality-driven wines. There is also a need for institutional bodies to highlight these boutique producers and reduce the exposure of the large, commercial wineries.”
So the Chileans continue to agonise as to the way forward, but that, along with their strong work ethic, makes Chile – and its wines – what it is. Anyone in the trade who still thinks Chilean wine is just about easy-to-drink soft and fruity wines which are ultimately bland must have been living in a cave for the past 10 years.
The development of new regions and the move to cooler-climate vineyards, particularly coastal ones, has resulted in more diverse, more interesting wines. Diageo’s Paul Walsh and Manchester United’s Sir Alex Ferguson were great leaders. Fortunately Chile doesn’t need that sort of inspirational leader. There are enough leaders in the country’s vineyards and wineries.
