Evolving role
Diplomatically, he moves on. He went to work for Domecq and became responsible for wine production. His role evolved and he became responsible for the company’s vineyards, quality control and its laboratories. As Allied took control in 1995, Domecq’s job altered again and he became more involved with representing the company as a living and breathing Domecq.
“That was a moment in my life,” he states. “I was director of the laboratories, we were exporting to all these countries and dealing with the legislation, It was fascinating. The science has increased so much. From the 1970s to the 1990s, there was a big jump.”
Sherry promotion
Domecq’s job now is relatively straightforward: to promote sherry and get it back to the forefront of people’s choice of a drink. He says: “I have to explain all the time. Sherry is imitated all over the place, including the UK with British sherries. It is another battle we are still fighting. We have not convinced the Americans. Champagne, Chablis, Bordeaux, all have to fight against imitators. We have to keep the name of sherry to ourselves and defend it.”
The UK remains a huge market for sherry, followed by the Benelux countries. Mexico, going back to the Domecq company days, was and remains an important market, along with Argentina and the US.
“The UK market has held up and I feel things are starting to be more exciting. I am optimistic about trends here and also in Spain. That is good. We have to show people what we have. Gonzalez Byass is doing a good job,” says Domecq.
“We have to show people what sherry is about. It is sometimes complex but it should be simple. The most important job is promotion: Tell people what it is about, what it tastes like,” he says.
“We have to provoke young people to start drinking sherry again. We need more time to educate,” says Domecq.
Japanese promotion
Apparently the Japanese adore flamenco. Domecq is not entirely sure why but the precision of the dancing and the guitar playing, along with pent-up passion, is thought to be the appeal to its Japanese devotees. Whatever, Domecq has to go there to promote the region’s drink. “It is an opportunity to pour some sherry and you have to take the opportunity.”
The inevitable question: What about China? He replies, somewhat resignedly: “Complicated and very bureaucratic.” So early days there then.
As to his interests other than sharpening his copita skills, Domecq lists bird-watching and trekking. He also likes shooting – partridge, wood pigeon and rabbits – but is swift to emphasise only things we eat. He was once a discus champion and he enjoys rugby. He has even found time to write a book, Sherry and its Mysteries.
Back to the Cinnamon Club and Domecq is passionate about enjoying sherry with food. He sees dry, light finos and manzanillas as both so versatile and specific: fish dishes, sushi and sashimi, asparagus, artichokes. Amontillado goes well with spicy food, nutty palo cortado with meat and dry oloroso with cheeses. (For more on which sherries went with which Indian dishes, see the blog Sherry & Curry on the drinksint.com website).
So, time to reappraise sherry. Beltran Domecq would certainly have us think so. After the sherry tasting at the Cinnamon Club, there is certainly an argument that sherries beat lager hands down.
