Winning hearts everywhere

27 August, 2008
Page 24 
The rosé category is growing fast as consumers find it suits quick, easy food and Asian-influenced flavours, and it has particular appeal to younger drinkers and women, who are increasingly making the household wine buying choices.

Market researcher Euromonitor International says that in the period 2002-2007: "Rosé is the major success story in still, light grape wine, with volumes up by 12 per cent over the review period."

The UK, France and Netherlands accounted for 76 per cent of global volume gains in rosé over that time, but the category is growing across the globe. Euromonitor forecasts rosé growth to continue at 3 per cent CAGR for the 2007-2012 period.

Navarra is Spain's stronghold in rosé, traditionally using the Garnacha grape, but Provence in France remains the world's only specialist rosé wine producing region, also using mainly Grenache.

The CIVP represents three regions producing 95 per cent of AOC volumes in Provence: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence. In 2005/6 total Provence AOC rosé production was 1.25 million hectolitres - 42.2 per cent of total French AOC rosé production for that year, and estimated at 8 per cent of total global rosé production by CIVP director François Millo.

CIVP figures for 2006-7 show that the traditional markets for dry rosé - Switzerland, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands - accounted for nearly 75 per cent of total exports of about 70,000hl.

Report: David Longfield
----=== Wine highlights (tasted at LIWF, May 2008) ===== Provence ==

? ? ? ? ? Château Pontet Bagatelle, La Rosée de Bagatelle 2006 Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (Gr/Sy)

Baked red berry aromas with almond hints. Full, complex berry fruits on the palate with oregano and thyme. Creamy texture with great length and poise.

? ? ? ? ? Domaine la Goujonne, Réserve 2007

Coteaux Varois en Provence (40Ci, 40Gr, 20Sy)

Delicate strawberry nose with white pepper hints. Fresh strawberry fruit with herbal mid-palate and white pepper to finish. Elegant, but full and long.

? ? ? ? Château de Calavon, Tradition 2007

Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (Gr/Ca/CS/Ci blend)

Very pale onion skin/orange. Heady, mineral-backed nose of cherry, redcurrant and raspberry. Pithy, savoury style with a light touch of tannin. Restrained fruit but elegant, with balance of minerals and baked berry fruit.

? ? ? ? Domaine de la Sauveuse, Carolle 2007

Côtes de Provence (Sy/Ci/Gr)

Orange-pink colour. Herbal almond nose. Rich, baked strawberry with a touch of tropical fruit and almond/oregano on the finish. Dry, expressive and elegant.

? ? ? ? Château Cavalier 2007 Côtes de Provence (30Gr, 25Ci, 20Sy/Mo/Ca/CS)

Onion skin with pink highlights. Very fragrant, mixed berry and rhubarb nose. High-toned, lean and subtle. Firm acidity makes it a good food match and fruit lingers on a good finish.

? ? ? ? La Villa Pastel 2007 Côtes de Provence (Gr, Sy + Tibouren, Fenois)

Pale orange-pink. Very delicate nose with melon, white pepper and red berries. Light redcurrant/raspberry palate with high acidity but a soft, balanced tannic structure making it a good choice for lighter foods.

? ? ? Château de Pourcieux, Sainte Victoire 2007

Côtes de Provence Sainte Victoire (Sy/Gr)

Full, expressive nose of strawberry jam and cherry. Big and friendly style with bags of open, approachable fruit.

? ? ? Château de Fontlade, Cuvée Saint Quinis 2007 Coteaux Varois en Provence (50Ci, 50Gr + traces Sy)

Scented berry and herbaceous aromas. Full, baked cherry and redcurrant with a clean herbal mid-palate.
== Spain ==

? ? ? ? ? Chivite, Gran Feudo Rosado 2007

Navarra (Ga)

Raspberry, strawberry and vanilla leap out on a fresh, clean nose. Fresh and fruity with a touch of white pepper. Delicate yet full of flavour, clean and refreshing.

? ? ? ? ? Marqués de Cáceres Rosado 2007

Rioja (80T, 20Ga)

Intense aromas of cherry with herbs and tomato juice. Opens with cherry and raspberry, mid-palate of sour cherry and a dash of cinnamon with mixed herbs through to a balanced finish.

? ? ? ? Castillo de Javier Garnacha 2007 (Pernod Ricard, Domínios) Navarra (Ga)

Deep purple-pink. Berry fruit nose with cherry, strawberry, plum and fresh leafy notes. Full of fruit, the 14 per cent alcohol is balanced by good acidity.

? ? ? ? Inurrieta Mediodía 2007 Navarra (Ga)

Fruit salad nose with black pepper touches. Full and generous with cherry, raspberry, rhubarb and touches of fresh grapes and red apple.

? ? ? Castell de Vilarnau, Las Planas Pinot Noir Rosé 2007 (Gonzalez Byass) Penedès (PN)

Deep cherry/strawberry aromas. Juicy, leafy-fresh berry fruit and creamy, voluptuous texture. A good quaffer.

? ? ? El Coto Rosado 2007 Rioja (60T, 40Ga)

Pure, clean raspberry/strawberry nose. Vibrant light fruit palate with touches of herbs on an easy finish.

? ? ? Nuviana Rosado 2006 (Codorníu) VdlT Valle de Cinca (in Aragon; 60CS, 40Sy)

Earthy mint and black pepper aromas. Full of black cherry, blueberry, spicy plum and cherry to finish.
== Greece ==

? ? ? ? Ktima Biblia Chora Rosé 2007 Central Macedonia (Sy)

Deep purple-red colour. Full black cherry, plum and strawberry nose. Generous, fruity palate with a rasp of black pepper on the finish. Big but very drinkable.



Comment

Dominic Roskrow

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