Limoncello is one of the most popular Italian liqueurs on the market. Its history dates back around 100 years and today it’s one of Europe’s most common after-dinner digestifs. Its origins remain under some dispute, debated by brands from the Amalfi Coast, the island of Capri and Sorrento, among others.
Regardless of who’s right or wrong, what is for sure is that traditional limoncello originates from southern Italy, using two varieties of lemon – Sorrento and Sfusato. The latter were introduced thousands of years ago by sailors from the Middle East and the fruit thrived under the Mediterranean climate to not only reach unexpected size, but also help cure the travelling Arabs’ scurvy.
While it’s correct there is no overriding GI for limoncello, meaning the liqueur can be made all around the world from California to South Africa, there are in fact two sub-sections protected by European law – Liquore di Limone della Costa d’Amalfi and Liquore di Limone di Sorrento Italy, which were both introduced in 2008. As well as production areas, the biggest differences between the denominations is the eligible fruit. The first stipulates that only Sfusato Amalfitano lemons can be used in production, while the latter allows for up to 15% of other varieties.
Today however, a changing climate and increased demand is putting pressure on traditional limoncello producers to supply the goods. This rise in demand has not only come from a thirst for limoncello, but from consumers over the past couple of years using PGI lemons to boost their immune systems – a psychological effect of the pandemic after people witnessed infection rates boom around the world. The global inflation which has hit the world like a secondary economic wave of the pandemic, is also making things tricky.
In a report by Fresh Plaza in May 2020, Salvo Magliocco, vice-president of Pasam Agrumi, producer of PGI lemons in Sicily, says: “Lemon prices have been rather high over the past five years due to the lively demand, especially for PGI lemons from Sicily.
“Covid-19 pushed demand further as consumers started looking for products rich in vitamin C. Some countries (such as Turkey) even used fresh lemon juice as a natural disinfectant. After all, while lemons cannot protect us against the coronavirus, they definitely contribute to boosting our immune system.”
In a separate report by Fresh Plaza, Salvatore Leonardi, sales manager of Sicilian company Natural Succhi, says: “The next citrus campaign can expect 30% lower volumes, depending on the areas more or less affected by the malaise and prolonged drought in May/ June, which caused fruit drop even in new citrus plantings, from which higher volume yields were expected. Even in August, unlike in other areas, not a single drop of water fell. In other areas of the Catania area, on the contrary, before mid-August (15 August), due to hailstorms and incessant rains, there was extensive damage to peach and pear plantings in Etna. This proves that climate change puts agriculture in check in an unpredictable way.”
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Much like the wine industry, limoncello is now witnessing the challenges posed by our changing climate. However the lack of profitability in farming lemons in the Amalfi region is also a cause for concern, with lemon tours being introduced last year as an alternative way of making money. In 2021, Gianmarco Aceto, a member of generations-long lemon farming family the Acetos, told CBS: “Without tourism this is not sustainable, it’s impossible to compete with the other countries that produce lemons, because they have less cost.”
According to Giorgia De Pasquale, of Roma Tre University, the number of hectares of lemon terraces in the Amalfi region has dropped from 72 to 48 since 1954. In a report by Tasting Table, De Pasquale claims this is due to a combination of farmers going out of business and younger generations being put off by the lack of financial gain.
The knock-on effects of having fewer lemon trees, with binding roots, is increasing the risk of landslides, while the rise in regular heavy rainfall is causing dormant traditional lemon terraces to collapse.
Optimistic outlook
While there appears to be trouble in paradise for lemon producers, brands are optimistic about the future for the category. Limoncello di Sorrento Bottega is produced from lemons grown on the Sorrento peninsula and the island of Capri, where they ripen in a mild, typically Mediterranean breeze and Sandro Bottega, president of Bottega, believes there are opportunities to grow beyond the traditional digestif drinking occasions.
The Italian producer has a wide range of liqueurs under its name, including Limoncino – a limoncello made from the Femminello lemon variety. Bottega also has Limoncello di Sorrento, which is made from lemons harvested in the six municipalities of the Sorrento peninsula and two on the island of Capri, making the Italian company one of the leading authorities on the category. “Certainly Limoncino cannot be considered only and exclusively as a digestif,” adds Bottega.
“It also lends itself to being consumed at different times as a garnish on ice cream or in addition to tonic water. It is an excellent ingredient for mixing in drinks. With this product we have created the Bottega Lemon Spritz, a variant of the traditional Spritz.”
Emma Sprackling, senior brand manager at Mangrove Global, which distributes Molinari-owned Limoncello Di Capri, believes the drinking ritual must be preserved. “We can never take that ritual away, it’s a core part of what limoncello is, and integral to the origin story of Limoncello Di Capri – but the brand is also finding great success in the aperitif moment in the form of a Spritz. We’ve also found that LDC’s customers love it as a refreshing, lower-abv option with tonic.”
Bottega also believes that innovation and attracting younger fans is key for limoncello as a sector going forward. “The category must turn more and more to younger clientele and offer new opportunities for consumption,” says Bottega.
“We have decided to offer, beside our historic Limoncino brand made from Sicilian lemons, a Limoncello which has developed a strong identity in the Sorrento peninsula. The special Limone di Sorrento, from which it originates, is characterised by the fragrant skins rich in essential oils which, left to infuse, create one of the most popular Italian liqueurs. In this way we offer the consumer two liqueurs with great personality: one originating from Sicilian lemons, the other from those of Sorrento. The new product is available already.
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“The first half of 2022 has given us great satisfaction both in Italy and in our main export markets. In GTR Limoncino Bottega is one of our most popular labels and, while Limoncino is our leader product in the category, liqueurs and other spirits are also doing very well on the market. Beside Limoncino we also offer Limoncino cream (Crema di Limoncino Bottega), which is reserved for a niche set of consumers.”
Another major player in the Italian liqueurs sector is Luxardo and, while sales are going well, export account manager Nicolò Luxardo believes inflation could undo a lot of limoncello’s recent progress. “Our Limoncello is performing very well both in European countries as well as further overseas and the rate of growth shows that there is a growing interest for this type of product. However, as with every other category the current issues with growing costs of goods and shortages in packaging and raw materials could severely harm the growth we’ve seen in this category.”
It seems a shame to finish on a negative, but the challenges which already existed before the pandemic have now been inflamed by inflation across Europe, caused by both the war in Ukraine and Covid-19. This, combined with the very real threat of climate change to the niche lemon varieties used to make traditional limoncello, the category i
s facing a storm of issues. However, while the Spritz continues to thrive among younger consumers and alternative, lower-abv serves are in increasing demand, limoncello’s properties could see it thrive under pressure.
