Most Admired Champagne Brands 2017: 16-30

03 February, 2017


One of the best ways of learning about Champagne and its wines is to taste as often as possible with different winemakers at small and large producers alike. Once they see you are genuinely interested in their work and the magic they weave they are usually happy to share some of their secrets.

It’s always great to spend time in the beautiful tasting room at Deutz with Michel Davesne. Like the wines, he’s calm and understated, but he’s brought a new level of consistency and expression to the cuvées in the range, from the textbook three-way non-vintage Brut Classic blend to the luxurious, velvety palate of Amour de Deutz Blanc de Blancs.

Brut Classic, currently 2013 harvest-based with a large 45% slug of 2012 reserve wine, is showing real zip, grapefruit zestiness with some creamy mid-palate texture developing. Davesne thinks it has great potential to age and suggests tucking away some magnums, now on the same blend.

The 2010 Blanc de Blancs vintage made from Le Mesnil, Avize and Chouilly Côte des Blancs fruit, married with richer Villers-Marmery Chardonnay, also has good ageing potential. In this December tasting the star act is the younger 2012, Pinot Noir dominated Brut Vintage, already attractively ample and generous in style, with a distinct spiciness. You may have to wait until later in 2017 for the first chance to taste it.

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